Staying in a traditional Japanese Ryokan

My stay at Yukimurasaki Takayama was one of the biggest highlights of my trip to Japan.

Spending a night in a traditional Japanese inn — a ryokan — has been on my travel bucket list for as long as I can remember. Ryokans aren’t just places to sleep; they’re designed to be retreats. When you stay in one, the idea is to slow down, stay within its walls, and simply exist: feast on seasonal meals, soak in the hot spring baths, lounge in your room, maybe meditate a little. If you leave the ryokan premises at any point, you have failed your visit.

During my last trip to Japan, I finally ticked that dream off my list at Yukimurasaki Ryokan in Takayama. It turned out to be one of the highlights of the entire trip — a beautiful balance of old-world tradition and modern comforts.

Check-in

The check-in process set the tone immediately. A warm, smiley hostess greeted us at the entrance and asked us to remove our shoes, which we tucked neatly into lockers before being led inside. After a quick exchange of passports and payment, we were escorted to our room by elevator.

One thing worth noting: guests must arrive by 6 p.m. at the latest. If you miss that cut-off, dinner won’t be served — even if it’s included in your stay. We made sure to get there on time, and I’d highly recommend doing the same (or letting them know in advance if you’ll be late).

The Room

Our room was everything I hoped a ryokan room would be: tatami mats, sliding doors, and a minimalist aesthetic that radiated calm. By day, it felt like a traditional Japanese living room; by night, after dinner, staff performed a quiet turndown service and set up soft futon beds layered with weighted blankets.

The futons were plush yet firm, and though the bean-filled pillows took me a moment to get used to, I ended up sleeping like a baby.

The en-suite bathroom was another pleasant surprise — it featured a private indoor onsen and a traditional Japanese shower corner.

After slipping into the provided yukata (a light cotton robe), I couldn’t resist a quick soak. To top it off, the bathroom was stocked with premium Kose Sekkisei toiletries, which felt like a little luxury bonus.

The yukata was SO COMFORTABLE that I ended up wearing the yukata throughout my stay, even to bed.

The Onsen

We specifically chose Yukimurasaki for its private outdoor onsens. Unlike many ryokans, there are no public baths here. Instead, guests can reserve one of two private baths: a rock-themed onsen or a bamboo-themed one.

I opted for the rock bath that evening, stepping out into the crisp mountain air. Imagine soaking in steaming spring water, under the stars, with the mountains as your backdrop. It was surreal — the kind of moment where time slows down.

Reservations are as simple as writing your room number on a list at reception, and since the baths stay open late, it’s easy to find a slot.

According to the ryokan’s website, their alkaline spring water is said to be good for circulation, rheumatism, and skin health. I can’t speak for the first two, but my skin did feel unbelievably soft afterwards. More than anything, the onsen gave me space to completely switch off — I could have stayed in there for hours just thinking about life.

Mealtime

Most ryokans would include board in the room price. Having a traditional multi-course meal is also an obligatory part of the ryokan experience.

Traditionally ryokans served food in the room. However, at Yukimurasaki, you’ll have to get to the dining area, where you have a designated private room. When we arrived, they’ve prepared our starters alongside a menu with our names on. I thought this was a better arrangement than having an in-room experience, since they were able to perform turn down in our room while we had dinner.

Dinner: A Kaiseki Feast

Dinner isn’t just dinner — it’s a multi-course kaiseki meal, carefully prepared and beautifully presented.

The star of the evening was the A5 Hida beef, the pride of the region. We each received four thin slices, which we grilled ourselves at the table. I still remember that first bite — buttery, rich, and melt-in-your-mouth tender. Every slice felt precious, and we savoured them slowly, almost ceremoniously. I did not want the bites to end!

The rest of the meal featured delicacies like fresh sashimi, grilled river fish (a local specialty), and seasonal side dishes. While the smaller plates were lovely, nothing could overshadow the glory of the Hida beef. Dessert was a sweet finish, though by then I was already full and blissfully content.

Breakfast

The next morning, breakfast was lighter but no less satisfying — a traditional spread of rice, miso soup, tofu, and small plates of vegetables. It was simple, clean, and refreshing, the perfect balance after the indulgence of the night before. Green tea was included, though I couldn’t resist ordering coffee at an added cost for a little caffeine kick.